Now and then give it a shake and as soon as the mussels are open they are cooked. Remove them from the heat and allow to cool.When they’ve cooled, pluck the mussels from their shells, retain and strain the liquor.For the salad:your pickled mussels1 cucumber, cut into 6cm (212in) lengths, then split in half, then cut into three lengthwise, aiming the knife into the centre of the cucumber, so that when brought together they will resemble a pile of kindling, rather than cucumber matchsticks1 red onion, peeled, cut in half and sliced very thinlya bunch of dill, picked from its stemsa small handful of extra-fine capersa splash of mussel liquora splash of extra virgin olive oiljuice of 1 lemonsalt and pepperMix all the ingredients and serve. Let these fry for a couple of minutes, watching that they do not brown. With a sharp knife, cut just behind the gills until you meet the backbone.

Turn your blade to face the tail and run it along the spine down to the tail. Add the fish flesh, keep mashing, and you should start to have a pan of hairy mashed potatoes If they are too stiff, add a little more milk and butter. Check for seasoning: it will certainly need black pepper, but depending on the fish you may or may not need salt.Serve in mounds with a peeled hard-boiled egg (the yolk giving slightly).GRILLED MACKERELThis is very straightforward, but there is no finer way to eat a fresh mackerel.2 small or one large mackerel per persona generous pinch of coarse sea salt (preferably Maldon)To fillet the mackerel: chop off all fins with scissors, then lay the fish on its side. The skin should crisp up and the flesh should become tender and giving.Serve with a salad of frisee, capers and chopped-up cornichons (baby gherkins).MUSSELS, CUCUMBER AND DILL SALADServes four2kg/412lb mussels13 bottle of dry white wine2 onions, peeled and finely chopped2 sticks of celery, finely chopped6 cloves of garlichalf a bunch of fresh thyme, tied upsalt and peppera splash of olive oilPut a splash of oil in a pan with a lid large enough to accommodate the mussels; heat up and add the chopped vegetables. Place under the grill for approximately four to five minutes, keeping a close eye on it.

Lay the fillets on a tray, skin side up (because this is such an oily fish there is no need to rub with extra oil).Salt the skin. Turn the fish over and repeat the process.Discard the guts and the head, snip under the remaining ribs and remove.Get your grill very hot. Heat the milk and butter, add half to the potatoes and mash, reserving the rest for when you add the fish. “Hairy” describes the fibrous texture of the dried fish.1.5kg/3lb salt ling (salt cod is a fine substitute), soaked in several changes of water over 12 hours2kg/412lb peeled, floury potatoes, such as Maris Pipers or King Edwards250g/9oz butter250ml/8fl oz milk2 onions3 bay leavespepper and possibly salt6 free-range eggsPut the fish in a pan with fresh water, onions and bay leaves, bring to the boil, then simmer for 14 minutes.Meanwhile, place your potatoes in unsalted water, bring to the boil and cook until soft enough to mash.Drain the fish, discard the onions and bay leaves and let it cool until you can handle it. Pull the flesh from the skin and bones – be warned, this is a very sticky exercise You should now have warm salt fish and hot drained potatoes. Let the sauce reduce and emulsify in the pan (do not let it disappear) and pour over the kidneys and toast Happy birthday!HAIRY TATTIESServes sixA splendid dish. Place them in the sizzling pan and cook for two minutes on each side.

Add a hearty splash of Worcester sauce and the chicken stock, and let all the ingredients get to know each other Remove the kidneys to your two waiting bits of toast. As this melts, roll your kidneys in your spiced flour, then shake them in a sieve to remove any excess. Chicken livers are prized across the world, for smooth, bittersweet French country pates or Jewish chopped liver, a world-class ethnic dish. The hearts and the chopped kidney and neck are simmered with onions and carrots for giblet stews or chicken stock, or to provide a little tasty liquor to blend with roast chicken juices for a sauce.But you have to know what to do with these things.