The city’s huge, heavily gilded, late-19th-century theatre, the Teatro Massimo, features in The Godfather Part III in the lengthy but gripping opera scene. Tours of the theatre are available in English (Tues-Sun, every 30 minutes between 10am-3.30pm).But you shouldn’t restrict yourself to Godfather-spotting. The city has plenty of other sights, including an historic centre with splendid piazzas, ancient churches, a 12th-century Arab-Norman castle, markets, caf? bars and shops. It’s noisy and choked with traffic, but it is exciting, with great nightlife, and even has a sandy beach.Ah, the beach. I fancy a restThen you should also visit impossibly picturesque Taormina, the island’s premier resort. Taormina has views of both the sea and imposing Mount Etna and is full of pretty cobbled alleyways filled with bars and restaurants as well as a splendid Greek theatre, cathedral and churches, mansions and an exhilarating cable car that will whisk you down to the beach. But you should try to time a visit here outside July and August, when it’s extremely hot and attracts thousands of tourists.So, how do I get there?Italian Journeys (020-7370 6002) offers apartments in a beautiful 18th-century farmhouse near Patti on the northern coast.

A two-bedroom apartment costs from £379 per person per week, based on four sharing. Citalia (020-8686 5533, ) offers seven-night breaks in Taormina from £599 per person, based on two sharing, including return flights. Car hire is available through Holiday Autos (0870 400 4447; ) from £139 per week. You’ll need an umbrella for tonight; there’ll be rain,” the waiter assures me.

I squint up at the Greek sky, pellucid and smiling as ever, and frown “Alithia?” “Yes, a rain of rocks.” Ah. Then, sinking still deeper into a fit of the apocalyptic, he adds: “Have you ever felt an island move?” The metaphors have are now not so much mixed as manic But then all the islanders of the Dodecanese are mad On Halki they have a yoghurt-throwing festival In Symi, they let off dynamite. Tonight is the Easter service on the island of Symi, and the celebrations will be earth-shaking indeed The faint-hearted need not fear: this is generous joy Nothing will crush you, not even the falling masonry. Nothing will crush you, not even the falling masonry.
We were lucky enough to reach Symi at dusk. The Aegean is an impish sea and sudden squalls blew up: bolts of lightning appeared, but almost casually – the weather was just keeping us on our toes.